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Flames burn in the mountain range east of Bogotá, the capital of Colombia. In addition to the acrid smoke, there is a heat wave due to climate change and El Niño.

Clouds of smoke rise over the city

Smoke from the burning mountain range on the outskirts of Bogotá reaches the city Photo: Fernando Vergara/ap

BOGOTA taz | It began with a thin column of smoke at the top of the mountain range. That was Monday morning. Since then there has been a fire in Bogotá. The Eastern Hills are the compass for the residents of the capital of Colombia. Where the mountains are, there is the east. The checkerboard pattern of the streets is based on them. The Monserrate landmark is up there. There is the white church that tourists visit for the view.

Since Monday, eyes have been drawn to the mountains in the hope that it is all over. But there is always smoke and flames somewhere. Two, sometimes three helicopters fly towards the misery with a lot of noise. From them hangs a red sack held by a long rope. The thing is called a “bambi bucket.” In fact, it seems about as impressive as sending a fawn to war. The helicopter flies there, the bag opens and sends a fine stream to the mountain, with 2,460 liters per load.

In the mountain forest, about 200 firefighters have been fighting for days to put out the fire, cutting roads and pumping water to fight fires. With the support of the police and the air force. Bogotá is located at 2,600 meters, the mountains are a few hundred higher, some of them vertical. An exhausting job. Any forest reserve, managed by the central water supply.

What can we do? Many disconsolate Bogota residents asked themselves. Donations of food, drinks, electrolytes, sunscreen and eye drops for firefighters were said. A few hours later, the city and firefighters reported: No more donations please, the collection points are full. Otherwise, they clarified, the money will not be collected. Apparently, scammers had already taken advantage of the situation.

Plus this crazy wind that slams your windows shut

In Bogotá and its surroundings, environmentalists and other organizations have been inviting people since Thursday to lend a hand every day to ensure that new fires do not break out: by collecting and watering garbage in the wetland, in the forest, in the mountains, in the páramo, this beautiful high mountain Andean tundra covered in moss, where drinking water is created.

At the time of writing this article, there are fires in five locations in the city: twice in the mountains, near the Doña Juana landfill, in the Tibanica wetland and in the Kennedy district. Since Monday, no fire has been extinguished; At best, it is “controlled.”

The health department recommends people who live nearby or who have respiratory illnesses wear N95 masks. And keep the windows closed. The air quality, usually bad in Bogotá, is now even worse. You still see few people wearing masks on the street. Some schools have been evacuated and are now holding virtual classes.

The sun burns and burns. There is no rain in sight. Plus this crazy wind that slams the windows shut. Which carries the cloud of smoke now to one room, now to another. The question is: Does the apartment smell like smoke again in the morning? Do your eyes burn during breakfast?

Hiking trails are closed, as is the church.

Firefighters now claim that it all started with a strictly prohibited bonfire. The land mafia may have started fires in Usme. Many things can be to blame for others: a piece of glass, a cigarette butt. Or the crazy heat caused by the climate crisis, amplified by El Niño. If you look at the map of Colombia, it is mostly red. All heat sources that can become fires. Many are already burning.

The city has closed all hiking trails in the mountains. In addition, nine parks that are in a risk zone, the Monserrate church. Some are calling for hiking trails to be closed forever because there are too many idiots. Others are sad because there isn't enough nature in the city to get around anyway.

At night there is silence. Helicopters don't fly there. The nests of fire shine in the mountains. Suddenly it turns completely black, until the mountain spits out a tongue of fire again. Like a dying volcano that rises again.